Itatiaia National Park is a place I know well. I was born in a town nearby, and as a kid, I used to visit often with my family to enjoy the stunning waterfalls in the lower part of the park. Later on, as I got older, I started exploring the trails and peaks in the high mountains. But one thing was still missing from my list. A proper multi-day hike with a night of wild camping.
This park is not only special to me. It is also a landmark in Brazil’s environmental history. Established in 1937, Itatiaia was the first national park in Brazil. It is home to three of the ten highest peaks in the country:
- Pico das Agulhas Negras – 2,791m (5th highest)
- Morro do Couto – 2,680m (9th)
- Pedra do Sino de Itatiaia – 2,670m (10th)
On my last trip to Brazil, I finally had the chance to do one of the park’s most popular traverses. A 2-day hike that starts in the rocky highlands and finishes deep in the Atlantic Forest, ending with a splash at one of the region’s most iconic waterfalls.
The hike
The route we followed is called Rancho Caído, and it's a great choice for anyone looking to experience a bit of everything the park has to offer. The trail can be done in a single day if you're fast and traveling light, but we wanted to take our time and spend a night camping in the wilderness.
The hike doesn’t require any technical climbing, and you don’t have to summit any peaks unless you want to. But if you're looking for a bit more adventure, there are great optional detours to some of the park’s most iconic viewpoints. We decided to summit Pedra do Sino and check out the surreal rock formations called Ovos de Galinha, giant, smooth boulders that really do look like chicken eggs balanced on a mountaintop.
Camping overnight gave us a deeper connection to the wild side of the park. The official campsite on this route is very basic. There are no facilities, just a metal locker where you’re advised to store your food. That’s because the maned wolf (lobo-guará) roams the area. It’s a skilled and sneaky food thief, so it's best not to leave snacks in your tent.
Travessia Rancho Caído
The route begins at the entrance to the upper section of Itatiaia National Park, where you’ll head toward the Circuito dos Cinco Lagos. The trail is well marked and easy to follow, although in some rocky parts you’ll need to look for the guide poles, since the path can vanish over slabs of stone.
On the first day, you hike through open high-altitude landscapes with incredible views and unique rock formations. You can take optional detours, like summiting Pedra do Altar or stopping by the beautiful Aiuruoca waterfall, which is just off the main trail and perfect for a refreshing break. We also explored the Ovos de Galinha and summited Pedra do Sino, which gave us incredible panoramic views. After one last climb, the trail begins to drop down into the forest, where the remote campsite awaits.
On day two, the hike changes completely. You leave the rocky peaks behind and enter the dense Atlantic Forest. The trail is mostly downhill, peaceful, and lush, with rivers and small waterfalls along the way. Just after leaving the campsite, there’s a short but steep climb. This is where you can choose to summit Pico do Maromba for a spectacular 360-degree view of the surrounding valleys and mountains.
After that, it is a quiet descent through untouched jungle. You won’t see many other hikers here. Most people stick to the high mountains and day hikes. Eventually, you reach Maromba, a laid-back village famous for its natural rock waterslide, where locals and visitors cool off by sliding down polished stone into a cold river pool. It is the perfect way to wrap up the adventure.
More Tips for Visiting Itatiaia National Park
Reservations Required
The number of visitors is limited, so it’s a good idea to book your ticket in advance through the official website. There are separate passes depending on whether you want to explore the lower part, the upper part, or do a traversia like Rancho Caído.
Bring a “Shit Tube”
Yes, it’s mandatory. You need to carry out all waste, including human waste. If you don’t bring your own kit, you can buy one at the park entrance. It usually includes a canister, lime powder, newspaper, and a plastic bag. The process is simple. Do your business on the newspaper, sprinkle some lime to dry it out, wrap it up, place it in the bag, and store it in the canister until you can dispose of it outside the park. Not glamorous, but essential.
Don’t Skip the Lower Section
If you have time, make sure to explore the lower part of the park. It is full of beautiful, swimmable waterfalls surrounded by untouched jungle, and the trails are much easier and more accessible. There is also a visitor center and museum where you can learn more about the park’s rich biodiversity and fascinating history.
Hiking the Rancho Caído trail gave me a whole new appreciation for Itatiaia. Even after years of visiting, this was my first time spending the night deep in the park and crossing from the high mountains into the heart of the forest. If you’re looking for a hike that is wild, scenic, and full of variety, this one should definitely be on your list. And the best part is, there is still so much more to explore in Brazil’s first national park.
